45. Cava ??½

527 Eighth St., SE, 202-543-9090; 9713 Traville Gateway Dr., Rockville, 301-309-9090

Cuisine: If all you know about Greek food comes by way of family-style diners trading on heaping portions of moussaka, these cozy mezzeterias—the creation of three Rockville natives and longtime friends—will be revelatory. They straddle the lines between authenticity and modernity, between lightness and heartiness.

Mood: The slinky hostess in her cocktail dress could have come straight from a hot club; the waitstaff wears jeans and black T-shirts. Those polarities define these brick-walled, bare-tabled restaurants, which have a good deal more heart and soul than a first glance suggests.

Best for: Big groups of friends; a night of dining where you can feel free to roll up your sleeves and get your napkin messy.

Best dishes: Spicy lamb sliders with tzatziki; olive-oil-drenched squares of watermelon with mint and feta; zesty, grandmother-style meatballs in tomato sauce; a tangy, full-bodied avgolemono soup; Disco Fries, a sort of Greek sloppy joe, with cinnamon-spiced braised lamb spilling over crispy French fries; superbly thick Greek yogurt with honey and walnuts; loukoumades, or Greek doughnuts.

Insider tips: Portions are bigger and often heartier than at most small-plates spots, usually falling somewhere between a standard appetizer and an entrée—nearly twice the size of a tapa.

Service: ••

DC location open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Rockville location open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for dinner. Moderate.