Cheap Eats 2007: Cava

Reviewed by Cynthia Hacinli , Michele Kayal , Todd Kliman , Ann Limpert , Don Rockwell

 

Forget Zorba the Greek clichés. Think instead of the ouzeri you’d find in Athens’s stylish Kolonaki neighborhood.

Mezze rules at this lively restaurant and nightspot owned by three second-generation Greek-Americans. From the tangy grilled baby octopus and the mini souvlakis to the charcoal-grilled loukanika (orange-scented sausage), the cooking is always gutsy and frequently interesting. Doughnut fans will want to indulge in Greece’s take on fried dough: loukoumades kissed with honey and cinnamon.

Portions are generous, and most dishes are under $9. The deal gets even better Mondays with $5 martinis and Tuesdays with half-price bottles of wine, including lots of interesting Greek picks.

Open weekdays for lunch, Monday through Saturday for dinner.